Homeland of the bułka

To pay proper tribute to the humble breadroll, we took a pilgrimage to its spiritual home: Poland. We spent a long weekend in mid-March, dodging pigeons and walking the historic streets of Kraków, before exploring the jagged peaks of Zakopane. As usual, we spent our time hunting down the perfect breaded chicken (which we found), accidentally sliding down icy walking trails, and testing the boundaries of just how many vodka shots one can consume before a 14km hike.

Our highlights

• Kraków breakfasts: Friday started in sunny Kraków with a beautiful breakfast. Jaclair ordered pancakes with plums and cream, which had a modern spin on a Polish classic. Zac and I stuck to the very traditional, very Polish avocado toast before we picked up the rental car and headed for the mountains.
• Mountain-style lodge: Our Airbnb in Zakopane was a rustic, wooden retreat – a perfect base for settling in and enjoying views of the still-snowcapped peaks. The centre of town was just outside our window.
• The "double-dip" restaurant: We found what is now my favourite restaurant in Poland, Bąkowo Zohylina Niźnio, which was conveniently next door. The breaded chicken and potatoes were so life-changing that we went back the next night to order the exact same thing. The servers were super kind and attentive, and we enjoyed starting the evening with a round of classic lemon vodkas.
• Frozen lake picnic: Before the 14km (8.7mi) hike, we did the sensible thing: acquired a large paper bag of bułki. We assembled our rolls sitting by a frozen lake—stacking them with cheese, salami, and smoked salmon (for Jaclair). It was easily one of the best meals we've ever had hiking.
• The Tatra Mountains: There were absolutely stunning views from the rooftop bars and the trails. Even in the biting March air, the scenery is elite. We even got a helping hand from a local Polish lady when the ice got too much for us – Polish hospitality is real!

Our lowlights

• The license debacle: Note to self: Poland does not accept an Australian driver's license; you need an International Driving Permit. Jaclair prefers not to drive, and I had conveniently left my license in London, leaving Zac as designated driver for the entire trip.
• Zakopane traffic: Because of the license issue, Zac bore the brunt of the notoriously congested roads between Kraków and Zakopane. Sorry :D
• The "slip and slide": Attempting icy mountain ascents in March without crampons. Would not recommend. It was incredibly slippery and slidy, and we were essentially sliding on our hands and knees until a local lady rescued us from our own poor decisions.

The food (and drinks)

• The vodka: We stayed up on vodka until 1:00 am the first night and midnight the second. Despite the late nights, we woke up feeling surprisingly fresh for our hikes.
• The bułka: You can't visit the homeland and not eat your weight in bread rolls. They are the ultimate hiking fuel, and were the undisputed star of the trip.
• Breaded chicken: A literal 10/10. When a meal is so good you repeat it 24 hours later, you know you've found a winner.

Verdict

Overall, we give this trip a 10/5 bułkas. There is so much to see, the mountain air is incredible, and the food is delicious. We're already planning our return trip.